OK, it’s time to stop all the low/no/mid wine bashing now.
Yes, it’s well established that the wine industry is behind the curve when it comes to producing wines with less alcohol, but this constant bashing of the low/no/mid wine industry isn’t helping anyone.
Historically speaking, wine production has remained largely unchanged for centuries: grapes + yeast + time = wine. The only real differences are the types of grapes and whether they get to keep their skins on or not (and before you start the barrage of comments, yes, I know there’s far more to it than that, but this is not an article about the intricacies of winemaking).
On the other hand, beer production has been consistently experimental with fruits and flavourings that no sane person would normally consider (roast dinner beer, anyone?)
The constant comparison between the two is wholly unfair and neither relevant nor helpful.
When you remove up to 14 % of a liquid that has nowhere to hide, it’s going to taste different. Alcohol does a lot more in a drink than just get you sozzled: it carries flavour, adds texture, enhances aroma and preserves the ingredients allowing them to sit and mature for years.
And unlike spirits, which, granted, do have a considerably higher starting ABV, wines don’t have the luxury of a mixer to hide behind and several other botanicals to buoy their profile.
It’s out there in all its naked glory, waiting to be judged, and that’s a vulnerable position for anyone.
So why am I sticking up for the wine guys when there’s still clearly a lot to be done? For just that reason. There’s a lot of RnD and NPD that the low/no/mid wine sector needs to do and is doing to produce alternatives for those who choose to drink less—and it’s not easy.
When you’re fighting centuries of tradition and miles of red tape, the last thing you need on top is a staunchly sceptical consumer market with nothing but negativity.
Instead, we need to support our low/no/mid producers. Buy a bottle (yes, actually spend money so that it can be reinvested rather than asking for free samples). Offer constructive feedback rather than just complaining. Make an effort to understand the processes involved and why the end result is so different so that you can appreciate the artistry and creativity involved.
Most importantly, STOP comparing it to full-strength wine. It’s a different product, and it’s going to taste different. Even those that come close to traditional wines will always have a different flavour profile (well, until Alcarelle becomes a reality, at least), and that’s okay.
Instead, judge the liquid on its own merit. Is this a flavour that I enjoy? Does this make me feel good? Can I relax with this glass and watch the world go by?
I was talking to a lady at an event recently who was asking me this very question, and I’ll say to you what I said to her:
‘What’s your favourite ‘traditional wine’? Sauvignon Blanc? Pinot Noir? Sancerre? (that’s mine) And how many wines did you try before you concluded that that’s the one you liked the best?
I’m guessing the answer is ‘many’!
At any point when you tried a wine that you didn’t like, did you say, “Well, that tastes awful. All wine must be rubbish. I’m never drinking another Pinot Gris again!” Or did you more likely knock it back sharpish and head to the bar to order something different next time?
Let's give low/no/mid wines the same courtesy of time and inquisitiveness. If we want low/no/mid wines to get better, we have to treat them and their producers better.
- Love the wine you’re with!
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